Essential Oils and Plant Extracts Face Unprecedented Compliance Challenges
Essential oils and plant extracts are undergoing unprecedented regulatory scrutiny. The EU is tightening its safety review of natural cosmetic ingredients. In July, the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) released draft restrictions on tea tree oil usage, recommending a significant reduction in the allowable concentration of this ingredient in cosmetics. Simultaneously, the European Federation of Essential Oils (EFEO) is urgently forming an industry coalition to submit a safety dossier for the exemption of Acetophenone, with a deadline less than two months away.
Tea Tree Oil Concentration "Ceiling" Lowered
SCCS clearly suggested in the draft that the concentration of tea tree oil in shampoos should not exceed 2%, that in shower gels and facial cleansers should not exceed 1%, and that the upper limit of concentration in face creams should be reduced to 0.1%. This recommendation is based on the conclusion that tea tree oil has been identified as a "moderate skin sensitizer".
The draft mandates compliance with the ISO 4730:2017 standard and requires chemical stability throughout product shelf life. It is worth noting that SCCS explicitly excludes aerosols and sprays because of the risk of inhalation exposure.
The committee pointed out in its opinion that the lack of stability data for tea tree oil is an important issue. "Tea tree oil may undergo chemical composition changes under light, air, or humidity conditions, which raises questions about the stability of the finished product."
In China, this ingredient remains listed in Category I of the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients (IECIC).
Acetophenone Exemption Countdown
Acetophenone faces separate regulatory pressure.
Earlier this year, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) classified acetophenone as a Category 1B reproductive toxicant, meaning that the compound potentially impair sexual function, fertility, and development.
Acetylbenzene naturally exists in various essential oils, including Cistus ladanifer (rockrose), Benzoin resin, Acacia farnesiana (cassie flower), Cananga odorata (ylang-ylang), Cinnamomum cassia (cinnamon bark), Heliotropium arborescens (heliotrope). If formally added to Annex VI of the EU Classification, Labelling and Packaging (CLP) Regulation, cosmetics containing these oils will have a 15-month transition period before potential ban.
EFEO is currently forming an industry alliance and plans to submit a complete security file to apply for exemption. The participation fee is expected to be between 80,000 and 95,000 euros. The alliance must submit materials to SCCS by September 10th, demonstrating the absence of safer alternative substances, limited exposure levels, and safety assessments.
Rising Industry Transparency
While regulation is tightening, the level of industry self-discipline is constantly improving.
On July 10th, the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) released its 2025 Transparency List, detailing over 3,000 fragrance ingredients.
It is understood that the list includes 3,312 fragrance ingredients and 379 functional ingredients, of which 1,021 are natural complex substances. Alexander Mohr, Executive Director of IFRA, said that the list "not only enhances transparency, but also promotes innovation, safety, and compliance in the global spice industry".
Strengthen the Understanding between Nature and Safety
Behind the new round of global regulatory tightening, it can be said that the traditional concept and marketing rhetoric of "natural equals safe" are no longer viable. In addition, the production of essential oils and plant extracts often requires a large amount of land, water resources, and plant raw materials, and also involves environmental issues such as deforestation and biodiversity loss.
The current regulatory changes will drive the cosmetics industry to transform towards a more scientific safety assessment system. Brands need to establish a more comprehensive ingredient safety database, formulators need to master more comprehensive regulatory knowledge, and the entire industry chain will face the requirement of increasing specialization.
