Who Defines Dermocosmetics? - Part Ⅱ
Ingredient Power and Formulation Challenges: How to Implement Science Driven Skincare Products?
Dermocosmetics distinguish themselves from traditional cosmetics not through "higher concentrations" or "simpler formulations", but via a complete development system behind them named "science-driven processes and efficacy-focused outcomes".
As the report points out, dermocosmetics are essentially a science-driven skincare approach, emphasizing a closed-loop collaboration of target identification, mechanism research, efficacy validation, and formulation design.
At the ingredient level, the report lists several key actives widely used in the market, including Salicylic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, Retinol and its derivatives, Benzoyl Peroxide, etc.
Among them, Salicylic Acid has become one of the most concerned ingredients in 2024 due to its combined effects against acne and keratin regulation. According to Cosmetics Business data, its monthly average search volume reached 60,500 over the past year.
Followed by Vitamin A anti-aging ingredients represented by Retinol, valued for multifunctional anti-aging benefits such as promoting cell renewal and stimulating collagen synthesis.
Beyond established ingredients, the report underscores two rising frontiers:
One is the systematic application of bioactive peptides and hydrolyzed proteins. Researchers at Transactiva noted that these small-molecule proteins synthesized by renewable biotechnology can mimic the natural processes of the skin, from relieving inflammation to enhancing elasticity. They have both plasticity and mildness, and are suitable for repairing problematic skin, infant skin, and post-laser recovery.
The second is the integration of antioxidant systems and environmental defense mechanisms. Kelly A. Dobos, a chemist specializing in skincare and cosmetics, asserts that antioxidants like Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide are essential core components in dermocosmetics. They neutralize free radicals, mitigate oxidative stress, and stabilize the skin microbiome. But she also pointed out that stabilization is still the main difficulty, especially in the conversion efficiency and skin tolerance of Vitamin C derivatives like Ascorbyl Glucoside and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, which require further validation.
Another critical dimension is sunscreen mechanisms. Dermocosmetics almost invariably emphasize "daily defense" capabilities. Yet as the report indicates, most UV filters currently used in the market rely on molecular structures developed decades ago, presenting issues in terms of environment impact, biodegradability, and skin penetration.
Besides, skin microbiome has becomea non-negligible variable in current formula design. Dr. Neumann, founder of MyMicrobiome, reminds, "Preservatives, surfactants, pH fluctuations, etc., significantly affect the skin microbiota. Therefore, formulators must consider the risks of ingredient synergy and interference from a systemic perspective when designing dermocosmetic products."
Specifically regarding pH control, the report recommends maintaining dermocosmetics within the 4.5-5.5 range to stabilize the skin barrier and microbiome ecology. Ingredient selection should prioritize mild, weakly acidic substances with low irritation potential.
In addition, the entire formulation process necessitates complex procedures including microbial compatibility assessments, stability testing, delivery system evaluation, and efficacy conversion rate modeling.
